every picture tells a story:gabrielle "coco" chanel

Who would have ever thought that the first Chanel boutique to open in the United States is on an island in the Pacific? The Hawaiian Islands, no less, where foreigners conjure up images of its inhabitants walking around bare-footed and wearing grass skirts, in the 100 degree blistering heat? To be honest with you, I was quite shocked myself. One would immediately think New York. It's closer to Paris, France. New York is home to the apparel industry, the Fashion Institute of Technology, Fifth Avenue, headquarters to every major fashion publication and notable fashion designers in America. For whatever reasons, which I have not yet found an answer to, the first USA Chanel boutique is celebrating it's 25th Anniversary in Honolulu, Hawaii.

It is a beautifully un-choreographed look into the life and work of Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel. The black and white exhibition was photographed by a then 27 year old Douglas Kirkland in I962. At the time, Douglas Kirkland worked for Look magazine and was assigned to photograph Chanel in Paris, France over a 3 week period. It was a daunting task at first, as she didn't like people and was a very reclusive person, with the exception of her workplace. She presumed Kirkland could not do a decent job. His assignment from her was to use mannequins as his subjects with her clothing and see what he came up with. And to her liking, Kirkland proved himself fit for the job. "Coco" Chanel was 70 years old.

Here's a little bit of history. Chanel was born into the "poorhouse", the second eldest of six children. Her father was a traveling salesman and when "Coco" was 12 years old her mother died of tuberculosis. Because her father could not care for her, she was sent to an orphanage. That would be the last time she ever saw her father. At the Roman Catholic monastery, she learned how to sew. When she turn 17, she left the orphanage and went to work for a local tailor, where what began as hobby of making hats, lead to her first millinery shop.

From the early beginnings of her career, until she died, Chanel took on many lovers, most of whom showered her with riches of jewelry, fashion and pearls. She even had short-lived career as a cabaret singer to which she would sing about a dog named "Coco". Whenever she would come on stage to sing, the audience would always shout out "Coco, Coco!" for her to sing about the dog, hence the nickname "Coco" Chanel.

Chanel lived at the Hotel Ritz Paris until the day she died. She wore her infamous Chanel Suit to work every day and ALWAYS wore a hat, even while working. She was also a chain smoker. At times Chanel would have a lit cigarette hanging by the lips of her mouth while draping fabric on her models. Chanel's belief in fashion was that simplicity was the key to elegance. Her revolutionary designs gave women a new sense independence and freedom. The iconic Chanel jacket and the accessible "little black dress". She was also the first designer to create a perfume with her own name. It is not sure where the name Chanel No. 5 derived, but it is said that it may have been the fifth bottle she chose. Chanel died in 1971 from a heart attack. In 1983, Karl Lagerfeld became chief designer. Today, the great grandsons of Wertheimer family remain the CEO's in The House Of Chanel.

I'd like to be "Coco" Chanel for a day. I'd walk down Waikiki in my beautiful Chanel hat, bare-footed and wearing a grass skirt, adorned with pearls and a splash of Chanel No. 5.

I'd like to thank Beverly, who is the docent for this exhibition. She graciously explained in explicit detail each of over 30 photographs. Douglas Kirkland lives in California and continues his work as a photographer. He is 89 years old. Ironically, a day after viewing the Chanel exhibition, I received an email from Herman Leonard. He was recently photographed by his friend and fellow photographer, Douglas Kirkland.